WE USUALLY ARRIVE IN ROSCOFF in one of two modes; either we have just arrived on Brittany Ferries from Plymouth and are keen to get going to wherever, or we have arrived in Roscoff prior to taking the aforementioned ferry back to Plymouth. One variant on our arrival-from-Devon mode is that we have on occasion taken breakfast in Roscoff before driving on; another was the time we took the first boat out from the harbour to île de Batz.
When we are shipping back to Plymouth we normally have some time to fill – we like Roscoff and enjoy our final hours here on French soil, especially if it incorporates a meal at our favourite restaurant Le Surcouf.
Roscoff can be pretty busy in summer. Parking then is très difficile. Out-of-season is favourite, especially if Le Surcouf is open (there are other eateries but not as good as……) Roscoff has yielded more Héron cards, posters etc. than any other place but the gallery that did the best in this respect is now just another Breton jumper shop. Sad, so sad.
Roscoff (feu postérieur) plays an important part in making the harbour front picturesque. I should imagine it is much photographed by visitors; it certainly has been by me. It is modest, but elegant, open to the public on Thursdays, not that I have ever experienced this, mind. The phare was built in 1917, postérieur to a feeble fixed light on one of the outer moles. You'll note from my snap above that the harbour dries: there is quite a tidal range here and access to the harbour is tricky, but it is well marked by green and yellow cardinals, beacons and lights, for some of which the Lighthouse Directory gives fulsome description. I'm sticking to lighthouses proper. Roscoff occults: two 'flashes' then one longer 'flash' every twelve seconds. The tower is 24 metres high or 79 feet if you prefer.
To get to the île de Batz a ferry is required and to ensure good communication with the island there is a very long walkway so that when the tide is low the boat can still run. That's where we had to go to take the ferry across to the island. We wondered if we were actually walking across, but no, a deserted ferryboat awaited us and in due course we crossed to the île de Batz.
Phare de Batz is much grander than Roscoff Phare and much older. It sits on the higher part of the island which is given over to growing early vegetables, notably onions and potatoes. It is only a few minutes across the water to reach the island. Needless to say we were out-of-season, no chance of climbing the lighthouse, so we explored a sizeable chunk of the island, particularly the granite coast before having lunch.
The lighthouse is granite built, 1836 apparently, 43 metres tall or 141 feet; four white flashes every 25 seconds plus a red light showing continuously to warn of a shoal to the south west. When the ferry departs of an evening one sees Batz long after the Roscoff phare has disappeared behind the islands in front of the port. The ferry, by the way, does not come into Roscoff harbour but has its own deep water terminal (Bloscon) to the east of the town.
When we arrive in Roscoff, fresh out of Plymouth, we turn left or right depending on our aspirations. Right leads to the wonderful Finistère coasts, the best of phares, world class – and a feast for the pharologist. There are lots of them, a Pandora's Sea Chest of lights… a very small sample of which I display below, just to whet your appetite…
Illustrations by JBH –with thanks, photography by myself.
