So an early spring morning start took us into the hills that form the barrier betwixt Mediterranean and Etang de Berre: La Chaîne de l'Estaque. At the opposite end to Estaque itself then; the lower, less lumpy end, is Cap Couronne, I regard it as a sort of low limestone sort of coast. With modest hills behind. We walked a bit of the shoreline and it was pleasant enough, if not startling: the more dramatic and beautiful bit of this small region is further along, east of the Cap.
Upon our return to our transport we went on to Sausset les Pins for lunch and Carry le Rouet to take in the wonders of their feux, then we left the coastal exploration for the joys of Marseille-Provence Airport at Marignane. But nothing could sweeten the pain of the absence of lighthouses hereabouts, no matter what you call your feeble feux. The Pointe de L'Esquilladou is another feu, close to Estaque and acknowledged on a subsequent coastal foray, when we also strayed into the outskirts of Marseille by mistake.
I toyed with the idea of describing to you the route of the Canal de Rhône et Marseille and the tunnel that takes it under the Chaîne de l"Estaque, the longest canal tunnel of its size in the world. Opened in 1927 but closed in 1963 after a roof fall; and despite the massive investment in the building of that tunnel, never repaired or reopened.
But then I reflected that this is not a canal blog: my public might conclude that I was just adding some padding to what might be considered by some as a rather 'thin' post. So I decided that if you want to know more, about the canals and its tunnel — well, you can do your own research into the Souterrain de Rove.Very interesting, perhaps considerably more so than this post…
A fair point, if somewhat painful to my pride, as your well meaning author…
A fair point, if somewhat painful to my pride, as your well meaning author…
On a similar excursion to the airport on the Étang de Berre, this time to post home our autumn guest (noted for mail-drops of fine Scottish smoked salmon, by royal appointment, so to be kept sweet at all times, by order) we had a jaunt, after deposition of said guest at departures, to the eastern end of the Chaîne de l'Estaque — where the roads are steep, dead ending in little ports, the coastal railway to Port de Bouc is the singular piece of engineering, coves are sparkling, isolated, and the sea is deep azur, clear and hazardous with spiny sea anemones —so mind where you paddle (painful to my feet et al, many sun-drenched years ago when the s&h was still taken bathing in such places). Hard limestone hereabouts but not graced by any lighthouses, feux or even buoys.
So not pertinent to this blog…
However, for the record, this is Redonne Ensues, the railway station for which is that building on the left overlooking the arched embankment. A gare with a view. I apologise for not editing out the ubiquitous white goods in the foreground. Bathing is not allowed in the harbour except from the concrete platform at the back of the boat park. Tsch.
However, for the record, this is Redonne Ensues, the railway station for which is that building on the left overlooking the arched embankment. A gare with a view. I apologise for not editing out the ubiquitous white goods in the foreground. Bathing is not allowed in the harbour except from the concrete platform at the back of the boat park. Tsch.
