la côte vendéenne: saint gilles-croix-de-vie

La Côte Vendéenne from the southern tip of Île Noirmoutier at Fromentine, down to St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie is generally low lying with sandy beaches. It is relentless, tidy, white villa-land. It takes forever to drive through it and any plan to follow the edge of the sea is thwarted by holiday homes blocking the view.

At last we get to a sea front with some character and minor feux at St Gilles. Because, as a river comes in here, there is a harbour, and as you may have picked up by now (or known all along), where there is a port there are feux, and in this case a lighthouse. Modest to a degree: It hides its light not under a bushel but several streets back from the seafront. Postérieur to the nth degree…

St Gilles Entrée Postérieur was commissioned in 1880. It displays a quick-flashing white light, intensified on the range line and synchronized with the front light. The construction is 24 metres tall or 79ft, a masonry tower with lantern and gallery. Originally there was no lantern and the light was displayed though a window but this was sorted out when the lantern and gallery were added in 1890. Huelse has a historic postcard view as usual. Now, this lighthouse is located on the Rue Henri Raimondeau at the Venelle du Grand Phare, in the middle of Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, 260 metres northeast of the front light. Strange place for it really, but it must work, so I won't quibble. Not exactly one's romantic idea of a typical lighthouse location, that's all.

St Gilles Entrée Antérieur also has a quick-flashing white light, similarly intensified on the range line and synchronized with the rear light. A titch at only seven metres or 23ft tall: a square stone tower with window and balcony. Originally the light was displayed though the window, but now it is mounted on the balcony railing. Huelse has the historic postcard view, for your edification, and this wee flasher squats on the waterfront of St Gilles. I think you sort of line them up to ensure you are coming into harbour safely after closing time, rather than smashing into rocks and getting amongst the beach huts. I include this feu as it works with the phare, to be fair.

Tour Joséphine? 1852, no longer in use, becoming surplus to requirements in 1880 when the two previously described took over. But saved and restored, might even have a cosmetic light showing when tourist numbers warrant it. There is a bit more on The Lighthouse Directory, not much.

Ah me… small potatoes, but one must take what one can from what there is. It will improve a little at Sables-d'Olonne…

The poster below is the work of Jean Benoît Héron
and the St Gilles light is fifth from the left.