LA CANCHE ISN'T EVEN ON THE BEACH! No it isn't – but situated among the grand villas and houses that make up Le Touquet's genteel suburbs, where folk from Paris with a euro or two buy a second home or two which they visit on grand days and holidays. Or at least they used to. Quite a lot of holiday-lets these days I suspect.We called in at Le Touquet-Paris-Plage after an overnight stay in a comfortable Kyriad hotel at nearby Etaples-sur-Mer after suffering rather too much discomfort of one sort or another at Beaugency, camping. The writing was on the wall for tent touring– and had been for some time as far as Mrs Melling was concerned. Nothing wrong with the view (see above) or the Loire there or at Blois (see inset), but the heat, the traffic, my back, discomfort writ large, all conspired to make this spot to be our last time under canvas (well nylon actually).
I digress! La Canche lighthouse is a fine brick structure, normally open to the punter but as luck would have it, still closed for renovation. Said repair was almost finished and if we had been there a week later we would have achieved the climb to the top where we would have, no doubt, perceived the relationship of this light with the sea. We might go back there sometime: the port of Etaples on the river estuary is interesting, the chalk cliffs round about high, the seafood on offer of high quality no doubt etc etc. But busy? Very, in season.
It was put up in 1951 on a site in use since 1801 (inactive 1940-1951). The focal plane is of 55 metres (180ft), displaying two white flashes every 10 seconds from the 56 metre (184ft) round brick tower with its lantern and double gallery. The light station, marking the entrance to the Rivière de la Canche, was first established with twin towers. Then a second pair of lighthouses, built in 1852 and 54 metres (177ft) tall, took over until they were destroyed by retreating German forces in September 1944. A temporary light was shown from the belfry of the Hôtel de Ville until the new tower, designed by Louis Quételard, was completed. It was due to re-open, you've guessed it, the week after we were there having being closed for quite a while to allow a complete renovation.
illustration by Jean Benoît Héron, photos by me.
